Where can you find a seaside town that is no longer by the sea?

In East Sussex, of course.

Once a coastal town, with the history of raiders to prove it, Rye is now miles from the sea, thanks to coastal erosion elsewhere in the UK that has drawn the ocean further and further away from this idyllic town.

While it may no longer be a seaside town in strictly geographical terms, Rye is still a beautiful and interesting place that retains many of the salty charms of a settlement forged by the waves and wind.

And a jewel in Rye's crown is the Mermaid Inn, a historical pub that sits down an enchanting cobbled street, a ten-minute walk from the train station.

The Mermaid is one of England’s oldest inns, with parts of the building dating back to 1156. The current owners are clearly proud of the hotel’s history, having dotted the walls with paintings of historical figures - I counted at least four Anne Boleyns.

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But it's not the beheaded monarch that has made the pub so famous. That honour belongs to its hearty population of ghosts.

The Mermaid Inn is regularly named among the most haunted in the country. The perfect place to be visiting by yourself in the dead of winter, then.

I was staying in room 17, which is one of the 31 rooms named after important figures in Rye’s history. So haunted is the Mermaid, many of these come with their very own ghost (or at least, stories of them).

Room 17 is named after Thomas Kingsmill. The likely local lad was second in command of the infamous Hawkhurst Gang, which used the hotel as a base for its smuggling in the 1700s.

The inn's numerous secret passages were used by the gang to evade law enforcement and to store their smuggled goods. Sadly for those with an appetite for tight spaces, these tunnels are now blocked.

It's not Thomas whose specter is said to stomp around these halls, but that of a gang member's wife. Many a guest has spotted a lady in white while staying in Room James. Other visitors have witnessed a duel being fought in room 16 (The Elizabethan Bedchamber).

My room featured a rocking chair, which is like catnip to a spirit. As you might expect, guests have reported this spooky piece of furniture wobbling back and forth.

Perhaps sensibly, this chair has since been removed, though guests particularly interested in this part of the hotel’s story can request it be added back to the room. As I was on a solo visit, I decided against this as I didn’t fancy being awoken by a ghost while on my own.

Ghosts aside, the room itself was stunning, with a four-poster bed and antique furniture. The bathroom featured a clawfoot tub, perfect for relaxing in after a day of exploring the town.

The room also once featured a secret passageway, connecting it to the neighbouring Rye Royal room. This has since been sealed up, which is arguably a relief given the already high levels of spookiness I felt throughout the Mermaid.

Staying in the room for two nights was a delight, even if I couldn't get used to the creaking floorboards during the night. However, what I quickly adapted to was the luxury of a four-poster bed.

The first night of my stay, I opted to eat in the Mermaid Inn itself. The hotel offers both a restaurant and bar menu, and I chose to eat in the restaurant, where you can order two courses for £39.50, or three for £49.50.

For my starter, I ordered the Jerusalem Artichoke ‘Crème Brulée’, which was truly delicious and perhaps my favourite dish I ate during my stay in Rye. A sun-dried tomato and olive arancini, which was particularly tasty when paired with a glass of English sparkling rosé.

Breakfast at the hotel was as good as the dinner, and it was included in the price of the stay. I had crushed avocado on sourdough with a poached egg and fermented chili.

In the evening, a drink in the inn’s bar is a must. It features a beautiful fireplace and a mostly peaceful atmosphere, perfect for talking to other guests or quietly reading a book before retiring to your room. If you want to get away from the hubbub, the inn has a couple of comfy lounges.

Both the bar and the lounges have their own interesting history, having been used by both the Hawkhurst Gang and by Catholic Priests who used the hotel to hide in - the bar itself still features a Priest Hole in the chimney breast.

All in all, my stay at the Mermaid Inn was fantastic. I would certainly consider booking again if I’m ever in the area again, even if the ghostly tales gave me the creeps.

The Mermaid Inn has 31 unique rooms, each one is named after a person from the history of the Inn and Rye, costing from £129. Visit www.mermaidinn.com to book.